3: Up the Coast

I saw many old friends around my home-town over the weekend. I was met with open arms and delicious meals. The KTM shop was closed Labor Day, so I took it easy at the beach. Before that, though, my photographer friend Austin, who recently returned from California, joined me to visit Domino’s House, a no-kill adoption cattery and animal shelter where my other friend and recent roommate, Christian, was newly hired at.

Early Tuesday was my appointment to have the left fork’s rebound adjuster repaired along with refreshing the fork oil in both shocks. Joe and the others at WMR Competition Performance know their KTMs. They handled my bike with precision care. Check out their showroom. I hung out for the ~2 hours it took to be serviced. In that time I got some valuable tips for my trip and I left them with my web link to follow my progress. The servicing didn’t completely fix my steering wobble, so I was in search of a scale. An hour later I found myself scratching my head, again. I discovered each of my panniers weighed 39 +/- 0.5 pounds. Since the center of gravity seems as though it needs to be precisely balanced to be rid of the wobble, instead of following an obsessive-compulsive path, I may soon be searching the market for a steering damper.

The decision was made to travel 25 miles south to Jupiter with Austin to see two mutual friends, CiCi and Jessica. We stayed the night in the dorms at FAU’s Jupiter Honors College, and returned to Palm City the next morning with CiCi. We told her the plan, that she was coming with us to Orlando, after we were on the road. She was thrilled. A quick load of laundry in Palm City gave us some clean threads and I a moist cell phone! Miraculously, 30 minutes of blow-drying resuscitated it and we were ready to go. Most of the ride with our car and moto convoy was along Hutchinson Island, a barrier island that lies on South Florida’s Treasure Coast.

A short turn inland soon brought us to our planned destination for the day at St. Sebastian River Preserve State Park. Off-road travel was prohibited, so we hiked the 1/2 mile to the primitive camp ground. A quick scout of the area revealed a stairway to a dock over the tranquil St. Sebastian River.

Dinner was quick but tasty and the fire helped keep the bugs at bay once the sun had set. As Austin and CiCi took a late-night swim, I found a tree frog that was modeling for me. A cool breeze from the river was with us for most of the night. A few hours before daybreak I was awakened from the cold (70 °F/26 °C), but I was too cozy in my hammock to go out to find a blanket, so I endured it until the sun came up.

We got up somewhat early to catch the remaining sun rising over the river. We gave our fiercest Haka faces for the camera and began our northward hike to the canal. A large portion of our hike was through blackberry patches, but sadly their season had ended months ago.

Our 7 mile hike left us famished. We took a quick dip in the river then had lunch. The evening ended with us charming the manatees and alligators with our didgeridoo and guitar. We broke camp early the next morning and after a quick refueling at a market, safely reached our friends’ Anthony and Dansir’s home in Orlando, FL.

2: Con Amigos en la Playa

The Palm Beach County tax collector was my last stop leaving Boca Raton to renew my moto registration, and by high noon on the 1st I had safely made it to Stuart, FL. The previous day had me worried I might not get on the road this day. After putting new tread on my rear wheel in the morning hours of the 31st, the four vaccines I had taken the 30th began inciting a formidable immune response. Inflammation left me run-down, red-skinned, head aching, and with mild pain coursing through my joints. A sushi dinner that night, at Fuji Dragon, rejuvenated me and the next morning I was feeling top-notch.

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1: Sic Infit

A few years ago I wrote a list. It was meant to be nothing more than an expression of my desires. It contained epic long and short-term goals, without a time constraint or an expectation to accomplish any. Between “skydive” and “hike the Appalachian Trail” was “motorcycle South America.” I remember when this came about. It was early 2007, and while traversing New Zealand with my old pal, Phil, I had been reminiscing over a motorcycle trip with my mother that occurred two years prior, covering 2200 km through Germany, France, Switzerland, Lichtenstein, and Austria on two BMW R1150R motorcycles. As I stared out the passenger car window into the lush New Zealand mountainside, I realized that what was missing from New Zealand was a motorcycle, and what was missing from motorcycling Europe was New Zealand’s tropical rain forests and unexplored wilderness. Instead of New Zealand again, my next destination would be South America. I nixed the idea of renting a bike or shipping my own and decided to mix things up. The allure of a dangerous journey through beautiful Latin America was what captivated me, and so my goal only naturally evolved into motorcycle Latin America! Thus, the title of this publication is En Moto al Sur, which translates from Spanish to On Motorcycle to the South.

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Final Preparations

Jobless, apartmentless, and enjoying every moment preparing. I’ve gifted, donated, and trashed most of my belongings. Even trashing within my apartment complex was often like donating, as things disappeared from the curb long before the scheduled pickup. This is also how half of my apartment became furnished.

The last planned phase of bike work has been performance enhancement. Replacing 3 jets from each carburetor metamorphosed the bike’s character, bringing out a significantly improved throttle response with steady torque all the way up the tachometer. A dynamometer readout of a similar KTM 950 Adv, also with FMF pipes, shows the flat spots in the power curve have been smoothed out with impressive increases in horsepower. For the tasks I don’t have the tools for, such as carb synchronization, chain replacement, and wheel balancing, the fine folks at AMR Superbikes in Boca Raton, FL lent their help. All these improvements along with some fresh tread with a new front tire brought my confidence sky high.

Today I sought canvas to replace the disintegrating hinge covers of my aging panniers. I wound up following a tip from a West Marine clerk and ended up at Craig’s Custom Canvas in Deerfield Beach, FL. I walked in expecting to buy just two plain pieces of canvas. Craig stopped what he was doing when I walked in. After hearing my predicament, we discussed some options. He had some good ideas. With skill, he got to work sewing up a set that were dual-layered mesh fabric with trim. While waiting, we started talking travel, and I learned of Craig’s one great adventure. After escaping high school, years ago, he embarked on a cross-country road-trip amongst friends. Craig hasn’t traveled far but said he wishes he had. He told me to keep my money and the covers were a gift to help me on my trip, then bid me a safe journey.

I often hear, “I’ll travel after I retire.” I’d rather retire after traveling. I strain to rationalize this use of the real golden years. They’re only here once. The thought of hitting the road early is tempting, Currently, only a few obligations keep me planted.